We finally got to bed around 11:15 but didn’t sleep too well with all the snoring and doors banging. I popped out to the bakery for what proved to be very poor bread, then we breakfasted and shopped for dinner. The morning started brightly as we made our way along the new road towards the ferry port of Armadale, a typically dull fast EU funded project with uninteresting scenery – moorland and forestry. Halfway there, the “improved” road ran out and we were back to passing places. Around the same time, we were treated to sea views whilst the weather deteriorated into heavy rain. At lunchtime we were glad to dive into the Clan Donald centre just outside the village to dry off, visit the pleasant airy café and tour the museum as the rain looked set in for the afternoon, which is what transpired. After lingering over the indoor attractions we donned full waterproof gear and made a rapid circuit of the gardens… well laid out and peaceful but not shown off in their best light by the torrent.

The rain had eased a little by late afternoon, when we cycled the short distance to the hostel, about a third full and with a quieter set of hostellers than the others we’d visited on Skye.

Fort William