We’d set our alarms for 05:00 so we could pack before the restaurant opened at 05:45. Arrival was 07:00, Spanish time 08:00. We disembarked to rain so had to unpack our waterproofs. We rode into the city, hoping in vain to find a food shop to buy our lunch then gave up and found our route out. My Wahoo Elemnt Roam v3 was playing up, and only giving me turn instructions, not the map, so I had to periodically check on my tablet.
It was a tortuous route with the cycle lane constantly crossing from one side of the road to the other as we twisted our way out, avoiding the highways converging on the port. The rain soon stopped, though the rest of the day comprised a mix of cloud, warm sun and heavy downpours.
From El Astillero we rode along the trackbed of the former 35 kilometre long Astillero-Ontaneda railway line, repurposed as Via Verde del Pas. Opened in 1902, in its early years the line acted as an economic driver, capitalizing on the boom in tourism to the spa towns of Puente Viesgo and Alceda. Over time, the line took on a more industrial character as mining in the area developed. A lack of profitability led to closure in 1978. We passed closed stations in small settlements but with no food shops. At Puente Viesgo we had lunch under the canopy at a garden cafe, remaining until another heavy shower had passed. We continued to the end of the via verde, whence roads took us to our destination. The last 11km was along a lovely undulating road with old houses and farms, with high hills in the background.
We bought cheese for tomorrow from the tiny village shop and established that the panaderia opens at 10:00, not at all like the boulangeries in France. The only dinner option was a bar where we suffered overcooked runner beans and a tortilla. Vegetarians are not catered for in rural Spain, a vegan would find it impossible.