Not such a nice morning, cold dull and misty. After a fine breakfast and a long chat with our hosts we hit the road at 9:45, over some quiet narrow moorland lanes inland from the main road. There was a vital sign missing at a crossroads after Maesyraelfor – had we not checked the map we’d have headed straight on and into Harlech instead of turning right. A sign here would be even more essential for cyclists travelling south – only the “give way” lines caused us to stop. At Penrhyndeudraeth we crossed the Talyllyn Railway (narrow-gauge steam, we heard a train in the distance but it was too cold to stop and wait for it!) and continued on for lunch and a nourishing pint of Hartleys XB at the Brondanw Arms. Then we slogged it out through the wind and rain to reach Bryncir ant the start of Lon Eifion, formerly part of the Bangor-Afonwen railway line, now a cyclepath and familiar territory for us. This took us all the way into Caernarfon, arriving at the northern terminus of the Welsh Highland Railway just in time to see a train depart, then along the banks of the Menai Straight and along Lon Las Menai, still the same trackbed, to Felinheli for our stamp. Again they couldn’t find it! From there it was a tired slog mainly uphill to home, which we spotted from a mile away nestling under the arc of a rainbow.